I've singed my hands many times doing kalayi

Zubair's face emerges through a giant cloud of smoke. There's sweat pouring down his face but his agile fingers, barely visible, keep spinning a large copper plate over burning coals. Every now and then, he stops, but only to douse the plate in a powdery substance. In just another minute, Zubair whisks the plate, frisbee-like, into a tub of water. With a loud hiss, the simmering hot plate, by now glistening silver, settles at the bottom of the pool. That's it. Ali's show – of coating brass and copper ware in 'Kalayi' – is over.

His work may make for a fascinating sight but Zubair's audience at Yahiyaganj's utensil market is dwindling. With only four kalayi specialists remaining in the bustling bylanes of Lucknow's oldest residential area, it is no surprise that future generations are beginning to search alternative professions. "Earlier, we would go to people's homes. Now, in comparison, we barely have any customers. If we can make over Rs 500 every day, we consider it a day well spent. Our children are more interested in pursuing jobs that pay better," says Anwar Ali, a third-generation kalayi specialist in the city.

Kalayiwallahs visiting homes may be a thing of the past now, but there are still those who swear by the health benefits of getting utensils coated in solder. And when the best known medical prescriptions fail to help, even doctors recommend that patients use kalayi-coated brass ware. Old Lucknow's Ismet Bano says: "There is no question of using copper or brass utensils without getting them coated in kalayi. Cooking in these utensils without kalayi coating is harmful for the digestive system. No one can deny that food cooked in brass and copper ware tastes the best. And for that, getting utensils coated in kalayi is a must."

But practitioners of the dying trade confess that the entry of steel, aluminium and hindalium products has dented their businesses. "These products are available in the market for a lot cheaper. Only old, traditional homes where people have still held on to old stocks utensils end up coming to us for kalayi. Most have now switched to steel," Ali added.It may be cheaper, but even the best cooks confess cooking in steel utensils is nearly impossible. In contrast, buying brass or copperware and maintaining them is a costly affair. Sample this, brass and copper cost Rs 500 and Rs 400 respectively. To use them for cooking purposes, they need to be coated with kalayi. With ranga (solder) prices – the main ingredient in Kalayi – escalating to Rs 1,800 per kg, and labour costing a few additional rupees, daily use of such products in most households has dwindled to a bare minimum. And in cases where these utensils are still used, the frequency of ordering a fresh coat of kalayi has dropped significantly. Ali said: "When my father managed this shop, people would get their utensils and paan daans coated in kalayi every month. Now, only a handful of old families get a kalayi coating on their paan daans as a status symbol. Gradually, even that frequency has dropped. Most people now settle for a kalayi coating once every year."

Old timers tend to agree. "Earlier, we had our plates coated with Kalayi every two months. Back then it cost Rs 10 to get a plate coated. Now, we must pay anything between Rs 40 and Rs 60 for a single dinner plate. If you make a comparison, a new plate of steel is easily available in the same amount," Indira Mishra, a Gomtinagar-based resident said.

On their part, if kalayi specialists are bumping up prices, it is not without reason. For consumers, the shining utensils they collect from these shops is a result of a few hours of hard physical labour put in by the kalayiwallahs. The special treatment to the utensils begins with a dip in caustic soda to rid them of any oil stains, followed by a thorough rubbing with mild acid. Before the final layer of ranga or solder can be applied, these specialists then vigourously clean the utensils with sand. Finally, on a bed of coal fire, utensils are heated, coated in nausadar (ammonium chloride) and layered with solder using wads of cotton and bare hands.

"Even though it has been a family business that has been carried forward for over three generations, I've singed my hands many times doing kalayi. To attain a level of expertise, and to ensure each utensil is coated evenly, I had to learn the art from my father for two years before I could do on my own," Zubair said.Despite the effort, the dipping demand for kalayi is leaving specialists in a lurch. "During wedding seasons, we coat vessels given away as part of dowry. Hotels and restaurants also commission our services. But these requests are few and far between; not enough to keep us going," Mohammed Islam, another kalayi artist said. For the best-known four in Lucknow, the only hope for survival now rests in their
consumers.

It may be cheaper, but even the best cooks confess cooking in steel utensils is nearly impossible. In contrast, buying brass or copperware and maintaining them is a costly affair.